By Scott Ronalds

I went for pizza the other week at a small restaurant in a seedy, though gentrifying part of town. The menu was written on a chalkboard and consisted of only 5 or 6 options. The wine was served in jars. The seating was communal. Nothing on the menu cost more than $15. And the place was packed. This was no Pizza Hut. The tomatoes were imported from San Marzano, the basil picked earlier in the day, the olive oil from the old country, the dough made in front of you, and it was baked with love in a wood-fired oven (which was probably imported from Naples). It was outstanding. It was craft.

Craft is making a comeback, in the food business at least. The concept of fine ingredients, limited selection (and production), attention to detail, time-honoured techniques, good value, and a simple atmosphere is winning over consumers big time. There’s a lot to be said for less overhead and more passion. From pizza to beer to gelato to donuts to fish & chips, artisanal products are being noticed. The rejuvenation of food trucks, farmers’ markets and word-of-mouth advertising are testament to the craft movement. It’s a good time to be a foodie.

We could use more craft in our industry. There are enough large scale, mass market, faceless products with excessive, questionable ingredients. We could use more simplicity and authenticity. We could use more margherita and less pepperoni.